Optic Lighting

Guide

How to Compare Permanent Lighting Systems

Every system looks the same in a night photo. The differences show up in daylight, in the whites, in the warranty fine print and in who answers the phone. Here's how to compare.

Start here

Photos are a poor way to choose a system.

Scroll any lighting company's gallery and you get the same picture: a roofline in red and green, shot at dusk, on a good-looking house. Every permanent system on the market can do that. Photos are a poor way to choose between them.

The real differences show up somewhere else. In what the house looks like at noon. In how the white light reads on an ordinary Tuesday in March. In one sentence on page two of the warranty. In who picks up the phone in year six. Those are the axes worth comparing, and they are the ones a quote sheet usually skips.

This is a buyer's guide, not a pitch. We install an RGBW system and we'll say so where it's relevant, but the questions below apply to every installer you talk to, us included. Take them to three quotes and compare like for like.

Axis 1 — white light

The whites are where systems separate.

Ask what colors a system does and everyone says sixteen million. That number tells you almost nothing, because you will spend roughly eleven months a year on exactly one color: white. How a system makes white is the biggest quality difference between two rooflines that look identical in a color photo.

There are two ways to do it. An RGB system carries red, green and blue diodes and makes white by driving all three at once. An RGBW system adds a fourth diode that is actually white.

RGB — white mixed from three colors

  • White is a blend, so its exact tint depends on how the three colors are balanced along the run.
  • Mixed white tends to read cool or faintly tinted next to the warm light already coming from your porch fixture and windows.
  • Workable for a December color show; harder to live with as the light you leave on every night.
  • Three diodes working to produce one color that a single diode produces better.

RGBW — a dedicated white diode

  • A fourth, genuinely white diode does the white, so warm white looks like warm white.
  • You get a real range from warm to cool instead of one compromise tint.
  • Matters most for the eleven months you are not running color.
  • This is what we install, and it is the main reason we install it.

Don't take either answer on faith. At a demo, ask to see warm white on your own fascia after dark, with your porch light on. That test settles it in about ten seconds. If an installer keeps steering you back to color animations, you have your answer.

Axis 2 — daytime

What the house looks like at noon.

A permanent system is on your house every day of the year and lit for a few hours of it. Daytime appearance is most of the ownership experience, and it is decided by the track: the low-profile channel the LEDs sit in, fastened along the fascia under the gutter line.

Three things decide whether it disappears.

  • Color match. Is the track finished to match your fascia and trim, or is there one generic color and you live with it? A matched track reads as trim from the street. An unmatched one draws a line across the front of the house.
  • Profile. A slim channel tucked under the gutter line looks like part of the roof edge. A bulky housing standing proud of the board looks like equipment.
  • Wire. Ask what the runs look like at gables, dormers and peaks. Transitions are where a sloppy install shows, and exposed cable is what people notice from the driveway.

While you're on the subject, ask what the track fastens to and whether anything goes through the shingles. It should mount to the fascia under the gutter line, roof surface untouched, and that answer matters again years later at a home inspection: how the track mounts without touching shingles.

Axis 3 — the hardware numbers

Spacing, hour ratings, and the figures worth asking for.

LED spacing

How far apart the diodes sit in the track. Wider spacing means fewer LEDs per foot and a roofline that reads as separate dots up close; tighter spacing blends toward a line of light. Ask for the number, then stand under a lit house at that spacing and judge it yourself.

Hour rating

LEDs fade slowly rather than burning out, so an hour rating is a life expectancy, not a warranty. Commercial-grade diodes are commonly rated around 50,000 hours, which is what ours are rated for. Check it against your own use: a few hours a night adds up to a couple of thousand hours a year.

Built for outdoors, year round

A permanent install should be permanent hardware, not seasonal parts left up. Ask whether the LEDs, track and connectors are specified for continuous outdoor exposure and how the connections are sealed against water. On the coast, ask it again about salt air and humidity.

Numbers are easy to print on a spec sheet and hard to fake on a roofline. Use them to narrow the field, then make every finalist show you a lit house.

Axis 4 — control

The app, the schedule, and what happens offline.

The app is the part you touch every day, so spend real time on it before you buy. Two companies can install similar LEDs and hand you completely different experiences.

  • Everyday use. How many taps to get warm white on and off? Are there zones or groups so you can light the roofline without lighting everything else?
  • Scheduling. Dusk to dawn should be one setting. Ask how far ahead the calendar goes: a good system lets you set holidays once and forget them. Ours schedules up to a year ahead.
  • Voice and smart home. Ask which assistants are supported and whether anything extra has to sit on your network.
  • What happens when the internet drops. The question almost nobody asks. If schedules live only in the cloud, your lights go dark the night your router does. Ours run on the controller at the house, so schedules keep going through an outage; what you lose is remote control until the connection is back.
  • Whose system is it. Confirm the app is set up on your phone, in your name, with a walkthrough before the crew leaves.

Axis 5 — warranty

The term, and what the term covers.

Warranty is where comparisons get slippery, because two numbers that look alike can cover completely different things. Get the document, read it, and keep it. A year count on a website is marketing until it is in writing.

  • Product or labor. A product warranty covers hardware. A labor warranty covers somebody coming out to your house. They are not the same thing, and a long product term does not automatically include a truck. Ask which one you are being offered, in writing, before you decide.
  • What a vague word means. If a term is open-ended, ask whose lifetime, which parts, and whether it transfers to a buyer. A plain number you can read beats a generous-sounding word you can't pin down.
  • Who honors it. A warranty is worth whoever stands behind it. Ask what happens if the company that installed your lights is not around in year eight.

Ours, stated precisely so you can hold the next quote to the same standard: the lighting hardware carries a 15-year product warranty. That is a product warranty on the hardware, so ask us how service works at your quote and you will know exactly what to expect before you buy anything.

Axis 6 — who does the work

Who installs it, and who comes back.

The hardware is half of what you are buying. The other half is the company. Quotes generally come from two directions: an owner-run local business, or a franchise or national operation working through a local branch.

  • Owner-run and local. The person who quotes the job is usually the person who installs it and the person who answers later. Decisions get made in your driveway instead of escalated. The trade-off is scale: one company, one calendar.
  • Franchise or national. You get a standardized process and often more crew capacity. The trade-off is that the branch, the crew and whoever answers the central number can change independently, so ask who you would actually be dealing with.

Neither is automatically the better buy. What decides it is the same either way: who physically does the work, whether they are insured, how quickly you get a human in year five, and whether the person in front of you can fix a problem without asking permission.

For the record, we are the owner-run kind, based in Wilmington and working the Triangle too. Calls and texts are answered 8am–10pm every day at (910) 910-4569.

Priorities

Which trade-offs are right for you.

You want everyday lighting first

White quality is your top axis, full stop. Prioritize a dedicated white diode, tight spacing and easy dusk-to-dawn scheduling. Color is the easy part for any system; a white you are happy to leave on every night of the year is not.

You want it mostly for the holidays

Presets, motion patterns, zones and how fast you can change a scene carry more weight. Still don't skip the daytime and white-light questions: you look at the house all year and the color show is a few weeks of it.

The house matters more than the lights

Historic trim, a picky eye, or an HOA: daytime appearance is your axis. Color-matched track, low profile, no exposed wire, then warranty term. Bring the specs to your board early — getting permanent lighting through HOA review walks through the packet.

You may not be in the house long

Then the honest comparison may not be between two permanent systems at all. If you're selling in a year or two, run the numbers first: seasonal versus permanent Christmas lights lays out how the math actually falls.

The checklist

Questions to ask any installer.

  • Is the system RGBW with a dedicated white diode, or RGB mixing white from three colors?
  • Can I see warm white on my own house, after dark, before I sign anything?
  • What is the LED spacing, and can I see a lit roofline at that spacing?
  • What are the LEDs rated for in hours, and is that rating for continuous outdoor use?
  • What track colors are available, and how will it be matched to my fascia and trim?
  • Exactly what does the track fasten to, and does anything penetrate the shingles?
  • Where do the controller and power supply go, and do I need any new electrical work?
  • What is the warranty term, is it product or labor, and can I have it in writing?
  • What happens to my schedules and my dusk-to-dawn lighting if the internet goes out?
  • Whose phone and account is the app set up on, and is there a walkthrough at handoff?
  • Who physically does the installation, and are they insured?
  • Who do I call in year five, and how fast do you answer?

Bottom line

Three answers that sort most quotes.

If you do nothing else from this guide, do these three. See warm white on your own fascia after dark. Get the warranty in writing and read whether the word next to the number is product or labor. Ask what happens to your schedules when the internet drops.

Those three separate quotes faster than any spec sheet, and every honest installer can answer them on the spot. Ask us the same ones at your free quote and on-home demo, and hold our answers to the same standard as everyone else's.

The best answer is on your own home.

A free design and on-home demo replaces every guess in this guide with your actual roofline.